Showing posts with label Koumpo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Koumpo. Show all posts

Sunday, 27 April 2014

Election Fever In Bissau and Relaxing Days In Casamance and Gambia...

We left Bissau at the height of election fever. The city was heaving with activity and thankfully peaceful, with a positive mood all around.  A drive day took us to Senegal’s Casamance region, where we spent a week exploring and relaxing: Fishing trips, exploring villages and craft markets on bikes, boat trips to nearby islands, and plenty of live music and dancing.


Relaxing days by the Casamance river, Senegal
Nicky, Steve, Derek, Paula, Adrian Getting Into The Rhythm Of Senegal!
Ali Joins In With The Limbo
The fishing port we visited in northern Casamance was quieter than usual as the previous night’s fishing had been poor. Luckily we got to see the vast quantity of fish that was caught in previous days being salted, dried and smoked to be sent upcountry, an extraordinary sight!

Fish Smoke House And Fish Drying In The Sun (Sascha's Photo)
These Guys Collect The Fish That's Been Dropped As The Huge Catches Are Brought Ashore
Our stay in Abene with Simon was a real highlight of the trip. The Koumpo dance we saw started slowly, as the Koumpo is a forest spirit who needs calling to the village with drumming. Fortunately, the spirit does also have a mobile phone so he knows roughly when and where he will be called! A stilt dancer joined us as the music and dancing built up ahead of the Koumpo’s arrival.

Ash Prepares For A Cameo Appearance
The Stilt Dancer Warming Up For His Performance With The Drummer Calling The Koumpo In From Afar!
The Baby Watched The Ceremony With Bewilderment!

It's very difficult to visualise what the Koumpo is doing under all the leaves; the spike comes out of his head, and remains stationary in the ground as he rotates around it.
The Koumpo Has Arrived!
The Koumpo Whipping Up A Storm In Senegal!
Later, two dark creatures turned up for the next stage of the ceremony. The children ran away in terror too quickly for us to catch them on film!

Koumpo Dance Senegal
This Creature Came On After The Koumpo And Scared The Kids Off In a Frenzy!
Koumpo Dance Senegal
A Hot And Sweaty Performance From This Child-Scaring Creature In Casamance, Senegal
Senegal Tourism Overland
Ladies In Their Colourful Fabrics Singing Along To To The Performance (Photo From Passenger Liz)
The next morning we visited a giant fromagier tree, considered sacred by the locals; it's actually 6 trees fused together. We also visited the local bat colony and met the chief before some relaxing beach time.

Fromagier Tree Senegal
Liz Climbing The Impressive Roots Of The Giant Fromagier Tree (Photo From Liz)
The Kora performance that the talented Gambian Griot, Hami Saho, gave us in the evening was much more subdued than the Koumpo dance the night before. He took time to explain Griot traditions, the history of Kora playing, and the meaning of each song.

Hami Saho Gives A Beautiful Performance Of Kora Music
Gambia Tour Overland
Ben, Ash, Laura, and Adrienne, Learning About The Kora and The Life Of A Griot
A short drive saw us leave Casamance for a few days in the Gambia. We took boat trips to see birdlife on the Gambia river, and had a great evening of music and dancing around Aminah courtesy of the village.

Tendaba Camp Gambia
Lazy Days By The River At Tendaba, Gambia
Dave, Liz, Kim, and Nicky Dance Around Aminah At Night, Gambia
The ferry across the Gambia river at Farafenni was as entertaining as ever; long periods of waiting around for something to happen, entertained by the many people selling colourful fabrics and cheap Viagra, punctuated by sudden frantic bursts of activity as the traffic moved onto the ferry.

Does Anyone Know Why A Drainage Culvert In Gambia Is An Irish Crossing (Photo from passenger Birgit)
Overland Group Africa
Steve, Adrian, Julie, John, and Liz On The Ferry With Aminah Tucked In
Our last full drive day of the trip took us back to Senegal, for a last night of relaxing on the beach before finishing our journey in Dakar.

Overland Tour Senegal
Derek By The Coast On Our Last Night Before Arriving Into Dakar
Cows Casually Strolling Along The Beach In Senegal (Photo From Di)
We had some excellent French food on our last night and a sample of the local nightlife. There's lots to see in and around Dakar, and many of the group headed to Ile de Goree on the last morning of the trip. 

For Aminah and Al the epic overland journey was not quite over. A 7,000 km + journey lay ahead in Mauritania, Western Sahara, Morocco, and Europe......long days cruising across the Sahara, listing to lilting desert blues.....to be continued.....

Trans Africa Overland
Al, Alice, And Aminah En Route Through Western Sahara Heading For Morocco

Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Overland through Gambia and Casamance, enjoying the dancing and drumming


Our first trip of the season got underway on 28th October in Dakar with 19 intrepid overlanders joining Al, Nev, and Aminah for the journey, some coming all the way to Accra, others to Freetown.

A warm welcome to John, Ant, Narelle, Sascha, Phil, John, Arnold (Will), Warren, Jane, Robert, Connor, Chris, Daniel, Ian, Peter, Ina, Janet, Birgit and Tania!

We spent a couple of nights in Dakar to obtain visas, giving the passengers time to explore the markets and back streets of the capital, and to take the opportunity to get to know each other before the journey began. Many of us enjoyed visiting Ile de Goree, a former slaving island just off the coast. 

Aminah ready to go, outside Hotel Al Baraka in Dakar, Senegal
The busy market area around our hotel in Dakar
Our first bush camp of the trip, close to Kaolack, Senegal
With visas in hand we headed out of Dakar to make our way to The Gambia. We enjoyed shopping en route to shop in a vibrant market in Thies, full of life, smells and colour, before heading to the trip's first bush camp.
Phil proudly shows off his new shorts!

At the Senegal-Gambia border we received an especially warm welcome from the border guards, who even gave a handwritten note to all of our American passengers, who they were particularly keen to keep in contact with! Things slowed down as we reached the Gambia river and we had to wait to cross, but we enjoyed mingling with the locals, some of whom had been waiting a week to cross, and who were keen to sell us all sorts of items, including beautiful fabrics, as we waited.

Cab shot while waiting for the ferry across the Gambia river
We finally made it to the front of the queue and watched in amusement as cars ripped their exhausts off driving onto the ferry!
The ferry we took across the river  Gambia
We spent our first couple of nights in The Gambia at Tendaba, where we went on boat trips to see the birds, on a safari to nearby Kiang West National Park, and enjoyed beers watching the sun set over the Gambia River. We also had plenty of time to visit the local village, and received a very warm from those living there.
Pirogues at Tendaba camp, on the Gambia river
Our boat trip on the Gambia river, from Tendaba camp, Gambia 
The village pier at Tendaba, The Gambia
On safari in Kiang West National Park, The Gambia
We enjoyed a fantastic evening of drumming and dancing at Tendaba performed by a large group from the village, who seemed to enjoy our attempts to join in! The following photos are from this evening.


Ian, Ina and Jane dancing in front of Aminah
Sascha, Jane and others enjoying the music
A small child shows Sascha how it's done :-)
Will impressing the local ladies!
Peter takes the stage
Phil showing off his shorts again
From here, a short drive took us to Bintang Bolong. We were rather slowed down by National "Clean The Nation" day, which led to some entertaining encounters with police, who tried to explain that all the roads in the country were closed, even as dozens of vehicles tore past us!

Many of us enjoyed the birdlife we saw on a boat trip among the mangroves on the river Gambia
The rooms at Bintang Bolong, The Gambia.
Narelle meeting the locals in Bintang, The Gambia
Playing with the kids on a free afternoon in Bintang


John by this peculiar sign we came across in The Gambia
Janet, Ant and others buying our food for dinner; these ladies even gave us a quick demonstration of how we should cook the ingredients! 
From Gambia we headed south to the seldom visited part of Senegal known as the Casamance region, a real highlight on our Dakar to Freetown trip. We are hugely grateful to Simon at the Little Baobab in Abene who arranged a traditional Koumpo dance for us. Some of the group enjoyed a drumming lesson while the rest of us sat back and listened enjoying the ice cold beer. We finished the evening with a traditional meal of fish and rice eaten out of a central communal dish in the local style.

The ladies who provided the backing percussion to our Koumpo performance in Abene



The women took it in turns to step into the centre and perform a stamping dance




The centrepiece of the performance was this forest spirit, who had a pole coming out of his head and performed an incredible swirling dance. Many called him the 'car wash man' for obvious reasons, and we are still discussing how he managed such an incredible performance!


Here, the spirit has stabbed the ground with the pole attached to his head, and is swirling around it. Absolutely incredible to watch.




Dancing around the drummer
Ian takes centre stage
Tania, Narelle and Sascha join in

When this dark figure arrived all the children ran away screaming!
There were two of these characters dressed in black, one with a beak.
After this busy evening we headed to the beach for a relaxing afternoon, visiting a hectic and vibrant fish market on the way where we saw thousands of fish being unloaded from pirogues. Everybody was fascinated by the thousands of fish we saw being smoked and packaged to be sent up country and to other countries further inland, where refrigeration is often not available.

We are now in Ziguinchor, the regional capital of Casamance, enjoying the fading colonial architecture, pirogue makers or for some, an afternoon by the pool. Next we head to the western part of Casamance to enjoy the beaches, trekking in the local villages, and Pirogue trips, before continuing south to Guinea-Bissau.

We still have a couple of spaces on this trip in the opposite direction starting in March 2014 Freetown To Dakar, please get in touch if you are interested in joining the adventure through this magical part of the world.