Showing posts with label Gambia Tour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gambia Tour. Show all posts

Sunday, 25 October 2015

Loving being back on the road in West Africa!


Our first trip of the season started in Dakar a few weeks ago after the long drive down from the UK. It's great to be back in the region we know and love so well and running trips again after so long away due to the sad events of the past year!

A warm  welcome to  Janet,  Wendy,  Kathy, John, Theo, Tim, Mehmet, Baz, Sam, Martin, Steve, Ray, Roy and Adrian, it's great to have you with us! Above are shots taken on Ile Goree, which many of our passengers visited as a day trip from Dakar.


Not far from Dakar we passed this truck being towed along. It looks like it's seen better days and the truck towing him didn't look to have been having a much easier time of it either! Fortunately the driver didn't appear to have been hurt in the crash.


The first truck lunch of many to come! An easy drive day bought us to our first bush camp, and the first night of torrential overnight rain. It ought to have finished raining a few weeks ago, but the rains this year have come late and are lasting longer than normal. We're hoping the dry season we plan our trips around comes soon. C'est l'Afrique!


Gambia is split in half by the River Gambia, and with no bridges over it, a lengthy wait for a ferry is an inevitable part of overland travel here. 


Tendaba Camp is a real highlight of the time we spend in The Gambia, with a great selection of birds viewed from the camp and on the numerous boat trips our passengers took. A comfortable spot to settle into the relaxed pace of life!


Konteh Kunda School of Music have only just opened, and we were delighted to be one of their first groups to visit. Established to celebrate and promote the Griot tradition and musical talent, and to provide a school for foreign students, we were overwhelmed by the warmth of the welcome we received and the energy of the music and dancing we witnessed. Above and below are shots of a Kora and Balafon performance soon after our arrival.



We danced for much of the evening to Djembe drumming, before witnessing an indoor performance from the family. Several of us also took part in Kora lessons.

A short drive down to the Casamance region saw us back with Simon and Khady in Abene. It was great to be back after so long and to see everybody again, and the Koumpo dance we witnessed on the first evening was as stunning as it has ever been!


The Koumpo is a forest spirit, particularly feared by local children, and often used to warn those in a village who may have digressed, such as children picking mangoes too early. A spike comes out of the Koumpo's head, which he plants into the ground and spins around on - a truly stunning sight to witness!







Kafountine is a busy fishing port that attracts workers from far and wide. Dozens of boats come in on a good day, and the men unloading the fish are paid per crate, which explains their frenzied pace of work!





Some of the catch is sent to market by refrigerated truck, but the vast majority is smoked, or salted and air dried. Dried fish provides a main protein source for many of the countries which make up West Africa.



The beach in Abene gave a great afternoon's relaxing, and Jase and Baz managed a quick surf!


Another night in Abene and another night of great music and dancing! We were joined by the same stilt dancer who'd given our previous groups such a great performance 18 months ago, but this time with a new costume he'd just finished making!





After a short stop in the main city of Casamance, Ziguinchor, we were back to the coast, visiting local villages by boat, looking for wildlife, and enjoying stunning sunsets. 




We're now in Bissau city, as relaxed and friendly as ever, enjoying some rest and western luxuries before the rough road east into Guinea begins. The heavy rains won't have helped the roads, but should make for some stunning waterfalls! 


Many thanks to Tim, Theo, Baz and Wendy for letting us share some of their photos!

Sunday, 27 April 2014

Election Fever In Bissau and Relaxing Days In Casamance and Gambia...

We left Bissau at the height of election fever. The city was heaving with activity and thankfully peaceful, with a positive mood all around.  A drive day took us to Senegal’s Casamance region, where we spent a week exploring and relaxing: Fishing trips, exploring villages and craft markets on bikes, boat trips to nearby islands, and plenty of live music and dancing.


Relaxing days by the Casamance river, Senegal
Nicky, Steve, Derek, Paula, Adrian Getting Into The Rhythm Of Senegal!
Ali Joins In With The Limbo
The fishing port we visited in northern Casamance was quieter than usual as the previous night’s fishing had been poor. Luckily we got to see the vast quantity of fish that was caught in previous days being salted, dried and smoked to be sent upcountry, an extraordinary sight!

Fish Smoke House And Fish Drying In The Sun (Sascha's Photo)
These Guys Collect The Fish That's Been Dropped As The Huge Catches Are Brought Ashore
Our stay in Abene with Simon was a real highlight of the trip. The Koumpo dance we saw started slowly, as the Koumpo is a forest spirit who needs calling to the village with drumming. Fortunately, the spirit does also have a mobile phone so he knows roughly when and where he will be called! A stilt dancer joined us as the music and dancing built up ahead of the Koumpo’s arrival.

Ash Prepares For A Cameo Appearance
The Stilt Dancer Warming Up For His Performance With The Drummer Calling The Koumpo In From Afar!
The Baby Watched The Ceremony With Bewilderment!

It's very difficult to visualise what the Koumpo is doing under all the leaves; the spike comes out of his head, and remains stationary in the ground as he rotates around it.
The Koumpo Has Arrived!
The Koumpo Whipping Up A Storm In Senegal!
Later, two dark creatures turned up for the next stage of the ceremony. The children ran away in terror too quickly for us to catch them on film!

Koumpo Dance Senegal
This Creature Came On After The Koumpo And Scared The Kids Off In a Frenzy!
Koumpo Dance Senegal
A Hot And Sweaty Performance From This Child-Scaring Creature In Casamance, Senegal
Senegal Tourism Overland
Ladies In Their Colourful Fabrics Singing Along To To The Performance (Photo From Passenger Liz)
The next morning we visited a giant fromagier tree, considered sacred by the locals; it's actually 6 trees fused together. We also visited the local bat colony and met the chief before some relaxing beach time.

Fromagier Tree Senegal
Liz Climbing The Impressive Roots Of The Giant Fromagier Tree (Photo From Liz)
The Kora performance that the talented Gambian Griot, Hami Saho, gave us in the evening was much more subdued than the Koumpo dance the night before. He took time to explain Griot traditions, the history of Kora playing, and the meaning of each song.

Hami Saho Gives A Beautiful Performance Of Kora Music
Gambia Tour Overland
Ben, Ash, Laura, and Adrienne, Learning About The Kora and The Life Of A Griot
A short drive saw us leave Casamance for a few days in the Gambia. We took boat trips to see birdlife on the Gambia river, and had a great evening of music and dancing around Aminah courtesy of the village.

Tendaba Camp Gambia
Lazy Days By The River At Tendaba, Gambia
Dave, Liz, Kim, and Nicky Dance Around Aminah At Night, Gambia
The ferry across the Gambia river at Farafenni was as entertaining as ever; long periods of waiting around for something to happen, entertained by the many people selling colourful fabrics and cheap Viagra, punctuated by sudden frantic bursts of activity as the traffic moved onto the ferry.

Does Anyone Know Why A Drainage Culvert In Gambia Is An Irish Crossing (Photo from passenger Birgit)
Overland Group Africa
Steve, Adrian, Julie, John, and Liz On The Ferry With Aminah Tucked In
Our last full drive day of the trip took us back to Senegal, for a last night of relaxing on the beach before finishing our journey in Dakar.

Overland Tour Senegal
Derek By The Coast On Our Last Night Before Arriving Into Dakar
Cows Casually Strolling Along The Beach In Senegal (Photo From Di)
We had some excellent French food on our last night and a sample of the local nightlife. There's lots to see in and around Dakar, and many of the group headed to Ile de Goree on the last morning of the trip. 

For Aminah and Al the epic overland journey was not quite over. A 7,000 km + journey lay ahead in Mauritania, Western Sahara, Morocco, and Europe......long days cruising across the Sahara, listing to lilting desert blues.....to be continued.....

Trans Africa Overland
Al, Alice, And Aminah En Route Through Western Sahara Heading For Morocco