Somba Houses, Trekking, Waterfalls, Wildlife and Dancing in Northern Togo, Benin and Burkina Faso

As our northbound trips start from Accra and we embark upon the long journey up to Tangier, it's time to catch up on the second half of our recent Accra to Ouagadougou trip. 

Having spent 2 weeks slowly exploring Ghana's Volta region and the south of Togo and Benin, after Christmas we had a couple of days driving up to the north of Togo. The grounds of this primary school made for a great bush camp - the children were fascinated as we set up camp for the night!

We had plenty of interesting stops along the way. Above, on the left, Alice is standing in front of the Aledjo Fault, a stunning feature through which the main road passes. On the right, Frank is trying to get through the entrance of a sacred Baobab tree, which has a large cavity inside with room for half a dozen people to stand. It was a bit of a tight squeeze!

Below are weavers at work at a local co-operative. They are weaving long but narrow strips, which are then sewn together to make a range of garments.

The Tamberma Valley World Heritage site is home to the Batammariba people; we spent 2 nights with them in Togo, visiting their fascinating 'Takienta' (mud fortress houses), learning about their beliefs and traditions, and witnessing traditional music and dance ceremonies.

Below, Tracey tries her hand at archery; good job we weren't relying on her to catch our dinner!

As the day cooled off we trekked up to a cave network, formerly inhabited as a retreat in times of tribal war. From here we were treated to some spectacular views of the valley below.

From here a short drive took us across the border to Benin and the Atakora hills, home of the Tammari people. We learnt of their animist traditions, and saw the similarities of their fortress houses with those of their cousins in Togo. Most of these were spread out among their agricultural areas, rather than being grouped into villages.

We trekked to see waterfalls, caves and agricultural lands. Above are giant grain storage jars which are partitioned inside. They are in a cave, near a water source, that was used as a retreat in times of tribal conflict as well as to escape slave raiders. It is believed people could have hidden for up to 6 months inside!

Below, Frank, Tony, Al, Alice, Theo and Tony stand outside a sacred Baobab tree which we visited on another trek.

Millet is a common crop of the area and is made into millet beer. Above, Tony and Sam share a gourd of it, wondering if it might be a little more palatable cold! We watched 2 locals down a gourd, drinking simultaneously from the same vessel, but didn't manage to pull this off ourselves!

Below, Jase climbs up to look inside a grain storage hut on the roof of a house, which is partitioned inside for different crops. A bell on it's rain hat stopped thieves getting inside without waking the household who would sleep nearby. 

Another short drive took us to Pendjari National Park, part of the WAP complex, the largest protected wildlife zone in West Africa. We boarded a couple of 4x4s for a bumpy and dusty day of wildlife viewing.

We were lucky enough to see buffalo, waterbuck, warthog, jackals, crocodiles, many antelope, many birds, and numerous herds of elephants. At our first coffee stop we were treated to a rather special encounter with a group of elephants that wandered right past us. We also visited a hippo pool where we saw many active hippos up close.

Below, Tracey, Janet and Sam were getting as dusty as possible!

From Pendjari we headed across the border to Burkina Faso and after a great bush camp we stopped in Fada where, above, Al is in front of the signs. Here we encountered a major problem...no eggs! Jase and Al were both very concerned about the next few breakfasts!

We then travelled west to Bobo Dioulasso, home to skilled artisans and a great live music scene. Some of the group visited the impressive domes de Fabedougou (above) and nearby waterfalls. Below, a great evening of live music. 

The trip ended all to soon in Ouagadougou, but we'll be back in Burkina Faso very soon to explore further on our current Accra to Freetown trip. 

Jane's Adventures Between Accra And Freetown

This is a guest post from Jane De Le Vega, a recent passenger of ours from Australia, who had a great time on our overland trip from Accra to Freetown in January 2014.

"Earlier this year I went on the Accra to Freetown trip with OWA, a six week trip from Ghana to Sierra Leone, through Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast, Guinea, and Liberia. It was a most wonderful trip, and as I sit down to write this feedback I can only think of positives.

Kids were always fascinated by Jane's sketching; some colourful characters visiting our bush camp in Ghana.

The slow and peaceful pace gave us time to soak in the amazing landscapes and cultures we were passing through: I sketch, so a slow pace suits me. The crew had a thorough, extremely well organised and professional approach. This had been obvious from the beginning, from their comprehensive website, and prompt, clear responses to initial questions. 

It became even more apparent once we all arrived in Accra where, on meeting Al our leader, any tiny worries one may have had in relation to safety were put to rest.  Al’s experience and understanding of West Africa - its trials and tribulations, as well as its wonders and wobbles - and his quiet  passion for it all was impressive. Impressive  also was his  calm, cool persona which I liked. I felt very confident. He was the perfect leader. His offsider, Neville, was also perfect.

Sights, sounds and experiences in West Africa always keep you on your toes!

Looking at the photographs on OWA’s website says everything that needs to be said. I am sure that anyone considering travel in West Africa is doing so because they already know it is a diverse, complicated, different and sometimes difficult part of the continent, and they know that a trip there will be fascinating, intrepid and adventurous. A one-off- not tame. That was why I chose the trip, and it came up to all my expectations. Perhaps even better than I had anticipated. 

Good times on the Domes de Fabedougou in Burkina; Jane takes advantage of Valentine's day;
Niansogoni's former troglydyte settlement which we trekked to

I had asked only two questions to OWA before booking, and these may be helpful to others considering the trips.  

The first question (because I am 67 and therefore a fossil) was whether they normally had fossils on their trips, and what generally was the average age? I didn’t want to end up granny-loser-fossil-lonely-no-friends amongst 19 teeny boppers! The answer was that their groups were mostly of mixed ages, the average age being about 40, and always some fossils.  As it turned out, this was the case on my trip and, indeed, there were a few fossils.

Andy with Jane's great birthday card, which he drew

The second question I asked was which nationalities the groups were usually made up of. I  asked this question because I had noted from the website that much feedback was from Australians. Being an Australian myself, when I travel I am naturally more interested to meet people from other countries, and therefore I was hoping the group would be of mixed nationalities. This was  the case. Our group of 20 included people from Ireland, Scotland, Sweden, America, Canada, the UK, and 3 Australians of which I was one. 

West Africa's beaches are a real highlight of our trips: Bureh beach Sierra Leone;
bringing in the catch; and driving along the Ghanaian coast

So it was a wonderful mix, a wonderful trip, and it was a sad moment when we parted in Freetown at the end. After all, we had done a lot together. 

We’d rattled over endless rutted third world roads together, often at only 30 kms an hour, with Africa passing by out the truck windows; we’d sat together in the truck at tricky border posts in midday sun while Al did endless paperwork with the officials; we’d all helped fill the truck water tanks from precious village wells once Al had done the negotiations, many onlookers, tiny sleeping babies strapped to so many backs;  we’d rejoiced together as we washed our bodies and clothes in a beautiful waterfall that we found ourselves camped beside; we’d sat together at night around a fire swapping stories; stomped through fabulous local markets with our cook group in tow, looking for things to turn into dinner for that night; decamped excitedly out of our tents and into basic hotel rooms with showers when available; argued in the dark, over a steaming pot, with someone in the cook group who thought two packets of rice wasn't enough; rushed into markets and bought far too many gorgeous batik african textiles, perhaps thinking that one day, back home, we could look as beautiful as the African women who wore them so gracefully (alas no!); camped in villages at night, surrounded by 100 inquisitive locals, waking the next morning to watch daily African life- women tending babies, the stew in the pot, the grinding of grains, the water carrying, the cows being herded out to their fields.

Curtis on a the few remaining vine bridges in Guinea; chimpanzees at a rehabilitation centre in Sierra Leone, and in the wild in Guinea, close to our camp

We’d visited wildlife sanctuaries, ex-colonial coastal forts, Cote d’Ivoire’s version of the Vatican, and marveled at the quirky, crazy, pink and turquoise corrugated iron shacks in Liberia built by the freed returning slaves from America - New Orleans style!

And finally, things like just walking with a new friend along a remote and very long African beach, and coming at the end to a fishing village, with men scaling their catch beside brightly coloured fishing canoes, all painted various shades of turquoise and blue with crazy red dedications to Jesus on their hulls. Photographs, photographs!

Captivating sights and sounds at the village we stay in to witness an incredible stilt dance, in Cote d'Ivoire

So, together we all shared this really wonderful experience in West Africa. And we couldn't have done it without OWA.

Thank you very much,  OWA. You do a really excellent job.

And to anyone else... YES, DO IT!

Many thanks to Jane for taking the time to write us this great post! Looking forward to seeing you on another trip in the near future Jane!

Sierra Leone Into Guinea-Bissau And The Fouta Djalon Highlands...

A few visa applications, time on the beaches for some R&R, and we headed off to Guinea, a real contrast after several weeks in English speaking countries. A windy drive through the mountains brought us into the Fouta Djalon for a relaxed week of trekking and waterfalls.

Cooling Off On Our Drive Up To The Highlands, And Al Buys A Beautiful Piece From A Local Sculptor (Liz and John)

The GPS Struggles To Know What Road We Are On So Settles For 'Potholes'! (Photo From Liz)

BBQ Dinner At Our Sunset Bushcamp In The Guinean Highlands (Laura)

We spent a couple of nights in a small village, tucked away on top of an escarpment, with stunning views of the surrounding gorges and waterfalls. We went trekking each day, sampled the local food, enjoying relaxing evenings with beautiful sunsets, and chuckled at the great turns of phrase of our colourful host!

Exploring The Beautiful Fouta Djalon With Our Local Guide - Vine Climbing's Always a Highlight!

Derek Cooling Off In The Waterfalls And Al Taking In The Views

Passengers Exploring The Surrounding Escarpments, Waterfalls, and Canyons In The Fouta Djalon Highlands!

Steve Climbing The Vines, With Ben, Kim, and Simon Below

This set of waterfalls make a huge drop from the escarpment to the plains below, a stunning sight, and a welcome relief for the chance for a refreshing swim after an hour or so walking through the forest to get there.

Kim After A Dusty Drive As We Arrived At The Waterfalls (Photos From Liz and Laura)

John At The Waterfalls, Still Flowing In The Dry Season (Photo From John)

The road from Labe to Guinea Bissau is gradually being improved by a Chinese company, but is still a dusty, bumpy few days of old school overlanding; crossing rivers, swimming in streams, with some great bush camps under starry night skies!

A Real Overland Adventure As We Drive Through The Highlands Between Guinea and Guinea-Bissau (Liz And Laura)

The Road Between Guinea and Guinea Bissau Is Being Improved...But For The Moment Remains Bumpy And Dusty!

Into Guinea-Bissau and we reached Saltinho Falls, a lovely spot for a relaxed morning taking a swim and watching the fishermen hard at work. We then headed west to one of the worlds most relaxed capital cities, Bissau, for some great food, club nights, and wanders around the port and fading colonial-era buildings. Election fever was in full swing, but in a very hopeful and friendly fashion. Elections are due any day now!

Steve, Liz, Ali, Lindsay, and Andre Wash Away The Dust! (Photo From Liz)

Some Great Sculptures For Sale En Route In Guinea Bissau (Photo From John)

Ash Cuts His Birthday Cake At A Bush Camp In Guinea Bissau (Photo From Laura)

Overlanding West Africa In Travel Bulletin Magazine

We're very pleased to have our new #Liberia trip featured in Travel Bulletin magazine!

This trip has now sold out, but we do have a couple of seats available for the same trip in reverse in January 2014 www.overlandingwestafrica.com/accratofreetown

This is one of the best blogs we have found to date. It is by Robin Wyatt who writes photo essays, and boy does he have an impressive portfolio. In this piece, Robin focuses upon Senegal, and takes a number of subject matters like people, architecture, wildlife, culture etc, and talks briefly about it with one helluva stunning photo.....so much colour! Really can not recommend this link enough, check it out!

Senegal: Travel In The land Of Hospitality