Burkina Faso and Ivory Coast Highlights: Kassena Villages, Skilled Artisans, Superb Trekking and Troglodyte Settlements

After crossing the border from Ghana into Burkina Faso we headed to Tiébélé, a Kassena village famous for its decorated mud built houses decorated by women using guinea fowl feathers.

Above is a family compound we visited, and below the campement we stayed at where we were allowed to put our tents on the roofs to take advantage of the breeze!

The dyes used to stain the walls are red, white, black and brown and all made from natural pigments. Each pattern has a meaning, symbolic of articles or creatures important to Kassena life. 

Below are storage utensils we saw within the two-room buildings. 

We also visited a village known for its pottery production where women learn the craft from an early age. However the older lady in centre of the photo below put the younger ladies to shame with the speed of her work! The pots are functional rather than decorative, and are built up by ring upon ring of clay which is then smoothed without the use of a wheel.

A short drive from Tiébélé brought us to the capital, Ouagadougou, where we enjoyed an evening dancing to a band playing Congolese rumba from the 50's and 60's. We were surrounded by immaculately dressed Burkinabes dancing ever so much more stylishly than we were! 

Above is the Grand Mosque in Bobo Dioulasso, our next stop after Ouagadougou where we enjoyed more live music, explored the old town and market and visited its numerous artisans. 

The Domes de Fabedougou rise sharply from the plains below, surrounded by green irrigated fields in the south-western corner of Burkina. The rock formations are easily scrambled up, and virtually deserted save for a few cow herders. We spent an afternoon exploring the area including several hours cooling off at a beautiful set of nearby waterfalls. 

The bush camp we made below the peaks was a real cracker, and such a beautiful spot to enjoy watching the sun set over the imposing peaks.

An early start saw us visit Tengrela. The lake that dominates the village is known for its hippos, though the chap below was the only one we were able to get close to by pirogue. 

Above, Pooley works on his rock star look, and below, Alexi and Jess wear lilies from the lake.

Above is a sacred baobab tree we visited, memorable for its eccentric guardian who communicates with the tree using a bell. He is the 12th guardian of the tree, which is believed to offer protection to the village and its agriculture. On the left, an albino man who gave us a performance on his Balafon. 

The Sindou Peaks are of a similar geology to the Domes de Fabedougou, formed under an ancient sea and since eroded by wind and rain. They are the location of local initiation rituals. 

Below, Pooley continues to work on his rock star look accompanied by Zoe and Nathan.

Above, Jess, Alice, Zoe, Alexi, Nathan, Emila and Al among the Sindou Peaks. 

Below, behind Al, you can see rice cultivation on the surrounding plains.

From Sindou we visited Niansigouni, a troglodyte settlement inhabited from ancient times up until the 1980's. The structures above on the left and right are granaries: enough grain could be stored to last a year when needed in times of tribal war, though all was grown and carried up from the fields below. The image in the centre shows a house depicting weapons which belonged to the chief.

The settlement is perfectly shaded from the sun and protected from the wind and rain, and most importantly cannot be seen from below. Although no longer inhabited, residents of the village below still visit this site for animist rituals.

The structure below, which is situated above the level of the rest of the settlement, was for storing objects of particular value for ritualistic or spiritual reasons. 

A long bumpy drive saw us cross from Burkina Faso to the north of Ivory Coast, and our first stop Korhogo. This lively town is known for its skilled artisans in the surrounding villages. Above a woman spins yarn, and below it's woven into cloth, with the finished product in the picture below that.

These beads are used to make jewellery and are painted with feathers while being spun on a stick.

Below is an example of Korhogo cloth, a print for which the region is well-known.

From Korhogo we head south to the Ivorian capital, Yamoussoukro, and then west into Guinea's Forest region before continuing south into Liberia. There'll be many more great photos coming soon so stay tuned!

Many thanks to passenger Alexi O'Brien for sharing these images with us.

Ghana: Wildlife, Markets, Forts, Beaches and Waterfalls

We started our northbound trips in Accra at the beginning of February, and it felt good to be back on the road after a few sweaty weeks in southern Ghana getting Aminah and her equipment ready for the return journey north back to the UK.

A warm welcome to John, Pooley, Nathan, Douglas, Steve, Spencer, Alice, Alice, Alexi, Zoe, Jess, Pauline and Emilia, who joined us and Jan who had been with us since our Accra to Ouagadougou trip a few weeks ago.

Above is the Kwame Nkrumah memorial which some of our passengers visited in Accra, built in memory of Ghana's first President, an influential pan-African independence campaigner.

Above is a primary school class some of us visited in the district of Nema, as part of a tour to see daily life in this residential suburb. Below, chameleons for sale in the local market.

Many of us went on to visit Jamestown, and saw the fort, fishing boats and the lighthouse .

We also went to see the world famous coffin makers at work, and saw more on our first drive day, along the coast to Elmina. These coffins are real works of art; some reflect the profession of the deceased, others are clan totems, whilst some are representative of African proverbs.

The coffins are traditionally used by the Ga people, and are occasionally made to order to be exported worldwide!

Below are pirogue makers whom we saw on our way along the coast to Elmina. The base is made from a tree trunk, often with planks added along the sides to increase the size.

Elmina Castle, also known as St Georges Castle, was built by the Portugese in the 15th century and is thought to be the oldest European building in sub-Saharan Africa. It has a long and tragic history as a slaving fort, though it's setting is stunning nestled among a busy fishing community. 

We also visited Cape Coast Castle, again a former slaving fort, and the first centre of British administration in what was then the Gold Coast. Another brutal history, with a stunning sea front setting.

Kakum National Park protects one of the few remaining belts of pristine rainforest in Ghana, which we visited on the canopy walkway, above. 

Below, the beach we camped on for a few nights, a truly beautiful spot .

A days drive north brought us to the Ashante stronghold of Kumasi, dominated by Kejetia Market, one of the largest open air markets in West Africa. It sprawls across the city as far as the eye can see; its hustle, bustle, noise, colour and smells providing a real assault on the senses. Every product imaginable is available, as can be seen above! 

The truck below has unloaded empty crates, ready to be filled with produce. 

Below are some fabrics for sale in the market, some of it Kente cloth. It's made locally, predominantly by the Akan ethnic group, and was initially worn only by royalty, though it is now much more widespread. 

Above is Fuller Falls, where we camped for the night and enjoyed washing off the sweat and dust from the drive day up from Kumasi, though its flow has been much reduced by a dam above.

Below, ladies who came to the falls to do laundry and collect water during our visit.

We also visited Kintampo Falls on our drive north through Ghana; Alexi is pictured below.

Above and below is Larabanga Mosque, believed to be the oldest mosque in Ghana located close to the entrance for Mole National Park. Locals believe the mosque dates from the 15th century.

Above is the main waterhole in Mole National Park, located just below where we camped for 2 nights. During our time at Mole we went on guided walking and vehicle safaris, and also had the chance for some down time by the camp swimming pool. The elephants in the park are well habituated to groups on foot, allowing for some very close encounters!

Above, Pooley, Jess, Nathan, Alice, Douglas, Steve and Zoe. 

The dry season is a great time to be in Mole National Park; with the countryside dry and dusty, and temperatures climbing, the wildlife comes regularly to the waterholes to drink or cool off. 

A hot and dry drive day from Mole took us further north in Ghana for our last bush camp before the Burkina Faso border. We visited leather tanners, basket makers and a mud brick cathedral.

Our last stop in Ghana was a visit to the crocodiles in Paga, though they were feeling the heat, too and not willing to come out of the water to feast on a live chicken like they usually do!

Our next blog post, through Burkina and into Cote d'Ivoire, will be out in about a week's time. 

Many thanks to passenger Alexi for the photos, some great shots!